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Single Action Hinge

Wooden Hinge Plans

Roger Gifkins

Double Action Hinge

Single Action Hinge

Over the past 7 years I have produced two types of wooden hinges, a single action hinge (that is in effect a finger

joint with a pin through it) and a double action hinge which has two pins. The advantages of the double action

hinge are that it will open out 180°, and you can set it in flush with the back of the box. With the single action

hinge, it will only open just past 90°, and it can only be rebated into the box to half it’s thickness, but it is much

simpler to make than the double. These plans will describe making and fitting the single action hinge in detail, and

I will write plans for the double action hinge at a later date. These hinges are best made as a small batch with

pieces put aside for future use, rather than setting up to make just one pair. For work at this scale you need will

need a small solid carbide spiral cutter (3.2 mm diameter) and a 2 mm spur point drill. These items are available

from Gifkins Dovetail. You also need dial or digital callipers, a ruler is not accurate enough.

Hinge Sizes

I will describe the hinge for small work, such that I have made for a box 120 mm x 120 mm x 60 mm. I have used

this same size on a box 300 mm x 250 mm x 150 mm. There is no reason why the hinge could not be scaled up or

down to suit other sized boxes. The actual dimensions will depend on the size of the cutter you use for the finger

joints, as the width of the hinge will be an odd whole number multiple of the cutter diameter: eg for a 3.2 mm cutter

you might use stock 16 mm wide (3.2 x 5), or for a 2.4 mm cutter use stock 17 mm wide (2.4 x 7). I will use a 3.2

mm cutter and 16 mm stock in the following description.

Selecting & Preparing Stock

As with all small work, the more accurately you prepare your stock, the better the end results will be. Ideally we

want a timber that will not split easily. It is worth experimenting to see how your wood behaves, as most woods

split more readily along the rings than across the rings. As we will be drilling holes from one side to the other, the

timber will be less inclined to split in line with the hole if we use quarter sawn timber.

Timbers I have used successfully for these hinges include: Ebony,

Hornbeam, Satin Box, Jarrah and Rosewood. I have used softer

timbers like Red Cedar and Mahogany successfully, but they may not

wear as well as the harder timbers. Thickness your wood to 6 mm,

trying to get as clean a finish as possible on both sides. The

thickness needs to be uniform, so it is best not to use the end 50 mm

or so from either end of the board.

TIP: For thicknessing stock less than about 13 mm, I find I get better results if I use an accurately

thicknessed board under the workpiece, so that the two pieces are fed through together. A piece of 18

mm pine that is longer and wider than the workpiece is ideal. Don’t forget to add 18 mm to the

thickness you want when setting the thicknesser! Keep this backing board for future use. You don’t

need cleats on the bottom board to hold the workpiece – they will feed through together OK just

stacked on top of one-another.

Once thicknessed, joint one edge flat and square and then cut a strip at 16 mm width or just a bit over. It can be

cleaned up to width later. NOTE: When workpieces are this small, it is much safer to cut to width on a bandsaw

(with a fine blade, say 6 or 8 TPI) than on the table saw. Dock your stock to lengths of about 150 mm or 200 mm,

ready for finger jointing, making sure the ends are cut accurately square.

NOTE: The drop saw is ideal for cutting small pieces accurately. See fence ideas for the drop saw at

www.gifkins.com.au

Jig for Slotting

Whilst you could use an incra jig for slotting, I find I get better results with a fixed fence on the router table and a set

of shims that are thicknessed to twice the diameter of the cutter. These need to be prepared very accurately, but

once done they can be used time and again. You will need to cut trial finger joints when thicknessing these shims,

so it is best to make up the jig for the finger joints before thicknessing the shim. The dimensions given for this jig

are only a guide, and do not need to be followed accurately. I use a block of 100 mm x 50 mm hardwood, jointed

flat and square before thicknessing. Cut one end flat and

square, and glue and screw a piece of 12 mm craftwood

to the end as shown. A strip of 12 mm craftwood is then

glued and screwed to the edge such that it is accurately

vertical. Make sure any screws are safely above the

cutter.

To use the jig, the workpiece is clamped in place as

shown, and a straight fence is clamped to the table. Set

the height of the 3.2 mm cutter slightly higher than the

thickness of your timber, say 6.25 mm for 6 mm stock.

Position the fence to get the layout of the joint that you

want, so that the outside of the cutter is in line with the

outside of the workpiece. With the router going, run

over the cutter, cutting through the workpiece and into

the craftwood. A stop block clamped to the table so you

don’t go too far is worthwhile. Instead of sliding the jig

back off the cutter, I prefer to lift the front of the jig off the cutter (with the cutter still running) and then move the jig

back away from the cutter. This way there is no risk that the cutter will widen the slot as you slide the jig back. We

would then insert one shim (which we haven’t made yet!) between the jig and the fence and repeat the cutting, then

a second shim etc.

Work

Piece

Fence clamped to table

Router Table

Stop block

Shims

We can now get back to the shims. Thickness some strips of hardwood for the shims (running through the

thicknesser on a backing board) to a little thicker than twice your cutter diameter, say 6.6 mm, and keep this setting

on the thicknesser. Cut two trial sets of finger joints and test for fit (they should be too tight). Now, using the same

setting on the thicknesser, run the shims through again with a sheet of paper between the shim and the backing

board. This will decrease the shim by the thickness of the paper. This method gives you very fine control over the

final thickness. NOTE: Standard photocopy paper (80 gsm) is 0.1 mm thick. Keep decreasing the thickness

(adding sheets of paper) till the finger joints fit together easily but without any free play.

NOTE: When using the jig, it is vital to keep the router table as clean as possible, as any dust on the shims or

between the fence and the jig will destroy the fit.

Once the jig is working the way you want, machine finger joints on one end of each workpiece. We then turn the

workpiece end for end, but before we clamp it in place, insert a 3.2 mm spacer between the work and the jig to

move the workpiece 3.2 mm further away from the fence side of the jig.

Work

Piece

Work

Piece

3.2 mm spacer

This spacer will offset the second set of finger joints by the finger width, to give us two pieces that will go together

with their edges flush.

If making lots of hinges, dock both ends off accurately at 20 mm and machine fingers again on the shorter strips.

Continue till you have enough, remembering that some pieces will be rejected in the drilling process, so have

plenty of spares.

NOTE: When docking to length, we want the cleanest cut possible, so I use offcuts of MDF underneath and behind

the wood to prevent tearout on the table saw. Seeing that we are dealing with such a small workpiece, I also use a

hold-down block above the workpiece to keep my fingers well away from the saw:

Cross cut fence

Hold down

workpiece

MDF to prevent tearout

With small workpieces I prefer to run the work onto the saw, and then stop the saw before I pull the work back off

the blade. This is not only safer but also results in cleaner cutting.

Drilling

For this we need a 2 mm spur point drill, as an ordinary twist drill will run off line and tend to follow the grain. It is

possible to grind your own spur points, but at 2 mm diameter this is difficult to do accurately. Set a marking gauge

to the centre of the wood (3 mm) and scribe a line from both sides. Readjust the gauge if these lines do not

overlap. Once set to the centre of the wood, scribe a line along a trial piece and also across the end as shown.

See page 8 for alternative hole position.

Using a fence and stop block on the drill press, drill a trial hole and check that it is central to the scribe marks both

top and bottom:

Positioning of the hole is critical for the hinge to work well, so the drilling should be done as slowly as possible.

Whilst it is possible to drill the two halves of the hinge together, I have found that the drill is more likely to run off.

Try it both ways and see which works best for you. If drilling the two halves together, it is necessary to use a 0.25

mm spacer (paper or cardboard) to stop the fingers going right home:

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