HV Water Fracturing Experiments (2008-09-26).pdf

HV Water Fracturing Experiments

(2008-09-26) -Dogs

Page 1 of 2

(Working Towards the Elusive VIC)

So I finally got the Acrylic VIC Sectional Spools glued together.

I used a professional grade Acrylic solvent cement. The stuff actually dissolves the some of

the Acrylic slightly on either side of the connection, the partially dissolved Acrylic parts

then weld to each other at a molecular level. This cement has a consistency that is close to

that of alcohol. It runs very fast. It also seems to be very toxic and cancerous, so you have

to use a breathing mask that has chemical filters on it, and be sure to wear latex gloves.

When I first opened the can, I tried to pour the thin

cement into the needle container, but found that the

can was so full that I might spill quite a bit of

cement just to get some into the container. Given

the toxic nature of the cement, I put everything

down and went out to get a plastic syringe from the

hardware store. Using the syringe, I was able to suck

up some of the cement and then cleanly squirt the

thin liquid into the bottle without any spillage at-all.

The way you have to use this thin cement is as follows:

1. Assemble the pieces that you want to cement together. Work with only a few

adjoining items at a time. The fewer the items, the easier it is to ensure that you hit

every adjoining surface, and there is less stuff to think about. Use a frame or what

ever is necessary to keep the pieces in alignment. In my case, I used a 1”x1” dowel

on which I had layered enough tape so that the

template pieces fit “lightly snug” when placed

around the dowel. The fit around the dowel

needs should only be “lightly snug” as you will

eventually have to remove the dowel from the

assembled sectional spool. In my first attempt,

the fit of the template pieces to the dowel

was “very snug” and it took a hammer to

remove the dowel from the assembled spool, I

was lucky in that all went well, and the dowel

eventually slipped through the spool without

any damage to the Acrylic components.

HV Water Fracturing Experiments

(2008-09-26) -Dogs

Page 2 of 2

2. With the pieces assembled on the spool, you then have to quickly apply the very thin

cement along the cracks where two acrylic components meet. This must be done

quickly and with care. The cement was so thin that I did not have to squeeze the

bottle to get it to run. And several times, I let a bit too much run, and I could hear

the liquid drip to the floor and on the workbench. As the cement is very thin,

capillary action sucks the cement right into the cracks between the adjoining

surfaces. You have to make sure to hit all of the adjoined surfaces and you have to

make sure to apply the cement to all four sides. And you have to make sure not to

poke you self with the needle. So always, always, sheath the needle the moment

that you put the cement bottle down. When I first

started, I caught myself reaching across the

workbench with my arm near the unsheathed

needle full of toxic carcinogenic liquid, Yuck!

3. Finally, push the pieces that you have just

cemented together with a little pressure with

your hands. I also used a small pair of quick

clamps that I could pump down with just a bit of

pressure. After about 5 minutes, I was able to

remove the clamps and continue on with the next

set of adjoining Acrylic templates.

4. Once the while spool is assembled, you should

clamp it all together and wait about 10 minutes.

This thin Acrylic cement bonds very quickly.

Finally, remove the clamps and push the dowel

tough the spool. The spool will now be one solid

component unless you happened to miss

cementing a complete adjoining surface.

You don't have to use the super thin Acrylic cement, in fact it is only recommended for

professional assemblers. I went with it because I felt it had the best bonding properties.

There are slower running cements so don't be turned off by the fact that the thin stuff is so

toxic and has to be applied with a pointy needle.

The spool with the 5 sections will be for the transformer. I haven't decided on the step up

ratio yet (maybe 1:500, what ever I have room for). The spool with the 13 section is for the

Bifilar Choke, I'll be using Stainless Steel wire here, I also plan on exposing a tap at every

section for one of the Bifilar wires.

Once the wire has been applied to the spools, I plan on Vacuum Impregnating the spools

with a high dielectric seal, possibility Teflon. My hope is that the dielectric seal will make

up for the what ever happens to be coating the Stainless Steel “Beading Wire”. -Dogs

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